Optimism, Murder & Haunted Houses

We continue driving and merge onto a dirt road. Alas, here we are again. I never had hardened opinions concerning dirt roads, but after living on them in Costa Rica, you learn they inevitably wash out. Then you’re the jerk on the other side trying to get to the store.

The road curves, and we drive past a propped open gate, revealing homes built into the mountainside. Some have large propane tanks out front, others with firewood. A few have green cabs on rails that resemble minecarts. Is there a quarry here?

Aside from the gun billboards along the highway, I saw others advertising fun days mining for jewels. “Smoky Mountain Gold and Gem Mine. The family will love it!” promised a cartooned prospector gripping a pickaxe.

I don’t know about you, but I’m signing up for this activity. If it involves not talking to anyone, then my father would join us as well. His goal in life is to be at least fifty yards from any breathing person, and if panning for sapphires keeps him out of the human race, he’d happily move his sifter box to the far edge of the flume. But if someone moseyed too close and asked a well-intentioned, “Find anything good?” my dad would hustle us back into our Chevy Impala, still grasping our bucket of dirt dreams.

My father is a platinum member of the Let’s Get the Hell Outta Here club. Some—meaning me— might say patience is not his virtue. He wielded this power if a son of a bitch cut us in line at Stuckey’s or when overpaying for a hot dog. My dad would have left Prince Harry’s wedding if approached by a valet. Getting the hell out of places was a hallmark of my childhood, leaving me to wonder how anyone ever got the hell into places.

I got excited about sticking my dad in the mud, so I looked up this operation on TripAdvisor, and boy was Jeffrey from Okahumpka, Florida, disappointed.

After hours of sifting, the owner confirmed that Jeffrey’s gem nuggets were nothing but worthless rocks, resulting in him abandoning his dreams of dumping Debra and getting a hair transplant. “The staff was rude and unhelpful,” he complained. “I paid fifty dollars, and my kids left crying. Parking was adequate, and the bathrooms were clean.”

We’ve all been there, Jeffrey. But look on the bright side. You parked your car and whizzed in splendor. It’s the journey, not the destination.

The dirt road narrows as we wind around a switchback. Two cars couldn’t pass each other without one careening down the side. This is exactly like Costa Rica. We approach a house with a “For Sale By Owner” sign nailed to the front. Rickety decking surrounds each creepy floor, and I notice random holes in the eaves like someone drilled into the wood with a two-inch bit. We exit the car and peek around the side.

Crunch, I hear.

A ten-foot snakeskin sticks to the sole of my sneaker. Why is this remarkable? Because I just came from the land of snakes, and I have never seen one this big. There is never just one snake. This guy has a family, and if he’s like my dad, he’s not thrilled that two dimwits showed up unannounced.

“A bit of a fixer-upper, right?” Rob says, but his gleeful expression fades when he sees the snakeskin. I know what he’s thinking. His billboard reads Optimist, Doughnut lover, Convincer. He’s got to sell this Hitchcock house to a buyer who wants no part of it. My interest deflates like a whoopie cushion, tooting the rest of my good mood into the Appalachian Mountains.

“Where’s the owner?” I ask.

Rob walks to a side door and reaches up, sliding a finger over the molding until he finds a key. “He said to let ourselves in.”

Ladies, none of us would walk into this house. We’ve all watched Jason from Friday the 13th chase hapless campers into subbasements. “Don’t worry, I brought bear mace,” Rob whispers, showing me a can the size of a AA battery. Excellent choice. Watching him pepper spray a seven-foot guy sporting a hockey mask is at the top of my wish list. Where’s pantsuit Annie Oakley when you need her?

The door creaks open, and the smell of suspense slaps us in the face. I’ve owned rental properties, so I can identify almost anything: cat urine, old baby diapers, or crack cocaine (burned rubber). I’ve got a nose for it. What I don’t have is a nose for murder.

I once purchased a bargain rental property in an unsavory neighborhood. “When are you replacing the floor?” the tenant asked before lifting a throw rug, exposing a dried, blood-soaked patch underneath. It’s then I learned that the previous tenant got her head bashed in by a baseball bat. And every month, the murdered woman’s sister came to the house in the middle of the night, banged on the front door, and screamed, “You’ll be slaughtered by dawn!”

When the current tenant left for reasons I couldn’t possibly imagine, I scheduled a showing for ten qualified applicants. I let myself in the back and sat in the kitchen, but no one showed up for their appointment. I didn’t know that the town crier scribbled one of her masterpieces and taped it to the front door. “You and your family will die here!” it stated in red ink. I eventually rented it to college kids who seemed less bothered by the murderous vibe and more interested in punching two hundred holes in the walls. I sold the property soon afterward.

We walk into the kitchen, where Rob continues his Good-News Realtor Tour. “Look at these vintage appliances! How cool,” he says while opening a Brady Bunch refrigerator. It makes a clicking sound like a playing card stuck in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. “And a matching stove! I’ll turn on the oven and see if it heats.”

I wouldn’t classify these appliances as vintage. A 1946 Westinghouse refrigerator is vintage. My grandmother had one in her basement. It was as thick as a nuclear reactor and took all your strength to open it. The freezer had aluminum ice cube trays with a lever that, when lifted, promised to separate the cubes but instead launched them like bottle rockets.

“This place is great. We should check out downstairs,” he says. “Can you believe there are two more floors below this one?” I can’t believe any of this, Rob, but let’s continue.

We weave through multiple rooms, making me wonder if this was once a boarding house. But in the mountains? I imagine a bunch of bearded hillbillies, cooking squirrels, and quarreling about Vern.

“He never gathers firewood, but dang sure partakes in the heat, grinning like a groundhog shitting on a maple leaf.”

We walk down another flight of stairs to the basement and find the hot water heater, a discovery that prompts a stoic Rob to deliver his “Never Give In” speech.

“With all the challenges we are facing and the uncertainties of the world, it’s comforting to know we’ll have a hot shower at the end of a winter’s day.” My husband would make a great timeshare salesman, but the company wouldn’t appoint him beautiful properties in the Bahamas or Hawaii. He’d get the grittier assignments like the Atlantic City gig, enticing you into a windowless van before expounding the virtues of a point system more complicated than organic chemistry.

I ignore his grandstanding and scan the room. Multiple doors lead to the outside. “This house is creepy. Listen when I walk.” I stomp my feet on the basement floor. “It sounds hollow.”

Lake NantahalaWe open one of the many doors and step onto more decking. This house has expansive lake and mountain views from all three stories. I hear a motor in the distance and watch a boat pull someone holding onto a tube like a chariot racer.

Weeee, she screams as the waves bounce her into the air. You can’t help but smile when you hear a weeee. Weees are from the heart. They’re better than woo-hoos. Those you hear at bars when friends urge you to drink a Flaming Sambuca. Weeeeing is finding convenient parking and clean bathrooms. It’s the simplest expression of happiness.

“This is the right house. I’m sure of it,” Rob pleads.

“Do we really want a fixer-upper?”

“We don’t have to do everything right away. We’ll take our time.”

“It’s too remote,” I reply. “There isn’t a store for miles.”

“What do we always say? The best adventures are down a dirt road.”

“It’s infested with snakes. Let’s get the hell outta here.”

A car pulls up, and a door slams. The owner has arrived.

 

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By | 2021-10-06T09:03:44-04:00 September 28th, 2021|Categories: North Carolina|Tags: , |4 Comments

Picking a Town, Finding a Home, & Creating a Budget in Costa Rica

Costa Rica Cost of Living Update: Picking a Town, Finding a Home, and Creating a Budget in Costa Rica —Kindle $9.99, Paperback $15.99

My new book is available!

Happier Than A Billionaire: Picking a Town, Finding a Home, and Creating a Budget in Costa Rica. It’s the perfect companion to The Costa Rica Escape Manual and will guide you through finding the perfect spot to start your own Pura Vida lifestyle.

To celebrate, I made mango cobbler in a cocktail dress. You may be wondering if I always cook in cocktail dresses, and yes. Yes, I do.

 

My husband advised me to wear heels because I looked taller when compared to the countertop. He’s the Don Draper of the Happier Production Company. So instead of five feet in height, I’m a whopping 5’4”.  It’s shocking how little that detail made in my appearance or in my confidence overall.

I’m sure nobody cares about my height or even the mango cobbler. But the new book is great if you’re dreaming of moving to Costa Rica and want a better understanding of how much rent costs, the average monthly grocery expense, or even what a suicide shower is.

Electricity AND water? Who knew? (not a feature in The Happier House)

But I think the most important piece of this video is the montage of the happiest moments Rob and I have made in Costa Rica. This filmstrip plays in my mind every day — flashes of crazy adventures we had after quitting our jobs and trying to forge a completely new life.

Now when people ask, “You left everything behind? What were you looking for?” I can point them to this video. The answer is simply…

  • I longed to see my husband smile after climbing behind a waterfall and looking all but twenty-four again.
  • I wanted to sit on a beach with a dog under my legs as mama turtles swam back to the place where they were born to lay their eggs.
  • I wished to bathe in orange sunsets and marvel at lightning bolts flashing across the horizon.

Perhaps I wanted too much. But I remembered the person I was when I was my happiest. She smiled a lot, and I missed her. It turns out the things I needed back were the richest things I owned.

I hope all of you can visit this lovely country and bear witness to a capuchin monkey stealing a lemon. It’s never too late to replace your frayed and yellowed filmstrip with a happier one. There is an endless supply of unprocessed film tucked away in your head. It could be buried in your cerebral attic, or maybe you moved it to an overpriced grey matter storage facility.

I eventually found my box of film hidden in a mental shoe box. It smelled of my grandmother’s Italian cookies and was the color of the yellow dandelions that wildly grew in my parents’ yard.

Inside I found a treasure map pointing to bluer skies with air that smelled of coconuts. Your map could take you to a Himalayan mountaintop or a Bali yoga retreat. The only thing I’m sure is you have to reach inside to get out and dip back to go forward.

And moving forward, whether in flip-flops or four-inch heels, is a happier place to be.

***Happier Than A Billionaire: Picking a Town, Finding a Home, and Creating a Budget in Costa Rica is available at:

Amazon

iBooks

Kobo

Nook

 

Panama vs Costa Rica

Bocos del Toro Panama

Costa Rica Cost of Living Update: Bus Ticket from San Jose to Panama City — Under one hundred dollars

There has always been a debate on whether Panama or Costa Rica is a better choice for expats. People will hunker down with their opinions and list all the many ways one country is better than the other. You would think it’s the World Cup. No one has flipped any dumpsters yet, but these discussions get pretty heated.

“Bananas are cheaper in Panama,” someone yells.

“Yeah, but look at our beach towns and lifestyle. Ticos really know how to enjoy themselves!” another responds.

I just sit back, eat to my slightly more expensive banana, and stare into space. I have no dog in this fight. Unlike what many people think, it’s not my mission to convince anyone to move anyplace. Happier Than A Billionaire is about finding a happier life, and mine just so happened to take place in Costa Rica. If it occurred next to an oil drum in Bayonne, New Jersey I would have written that version of my story.

The truth is that becoming an expat has many variables. Success has more to do with your attitude than what particular country you are moving to. Learning a new language will be difficult, reinventing a new life is challenging, but the biggest obstacle is always going to be yourself. To assimilate into a new culture often means you have to experience things on the fly. And that means letting go of who you had previously defined yourself to be.

Take Kay Bratt; author of The Pursuit of Panama, a wildly successful writer who, with her husband, went through their own adventures in Panama. For two weeks, they explored the country wondering if moving abroad was the right decision for them. In her journey, Kay wrestles with her version of happiness. The question she set out to answer was whether or not Panama was going to be her happy place. She was inspired in part by reading my books and hopefully learned not to let her husband shove twelve thousand dollars into his underpants during their travels. Or hide any guns in a functioning fireplace.

We are all looking for that happy spot in life. It’s a moving target. A place that was once warm can grow cold. When that happens, it’s time to move on, and moving on could mean moving out, changing jobs, or even leaving old friends behind. This line of sight is never straight, and often means you have to bend in the wind in order to hit the bulls-eye.

People often ask me how I got the courage to leave my old life behind for a new one in Costa Rica. A foreign place, a foreign language, and with no guarantee it would work out. But there was this moment when I realized it was riskier not to do it than to take a chance. I knew if I didn’t break out of that stifling lifestyle, I would look back at the moment and have profound regret. I saw a beacon of light through a foggy time in my life, and its soft beam gave me hope.

I still follow that beacon even though there is little fog left in my life today. The skies are bright in Costa Rica, and the sunshine lightens up even the darkest corners. But at night I still see it. The beacon calls out for me, reminding me to keep dreaming, to keep being happy, and to keep remembering that life is in constant flux.  Ebbing and flowing is always the best way to ride a wave, but you have to paddle out to sea before you can go with the flow.

So if someone chooses to debate me on whether Bocas del Toro has better snorkeling than Playa Conchal Costa Rica, which it does, or if they have more volcanoes to hike, which they don’t, I’ll just rock in my hammock and continue staring up at the powder blue sky.  I’m not here to argue, or convince anyone that their ideas are wrong. There is room enough for everyone on this journey, and I’m still bending in the wind on mine.

If you are thinking about a move to Panama, or even just dreaming of what such a change might be like, you can find Kay’s latest book, The Pursuit of Panama, here on Amazon. I’m sure you will be inspired by Kay as well. http://amzn.to/2w2Qd0L

And while I’m not here to convince you to move to Costa Rica, if you would like to come along with me on my hilarious journey please read Happier Than A Billionaire and The Sequel. If you are inspired to join me in Costa Rica, you may also enjoy my guide to living here with everything I’ve learned over the past nine years, The Costa Rica Escape Manual.  http://amzn.to/2eQeO5g

 

A New Yorker Gardening in Costa Rica

Happier House Garden

Costa Rica Cost of Living Update: A Thousand Bougainvillea Plants—Free when your husband is a lunatic

The weather has been beautiful in Costa Rica with the perfect mix of rain and sunshine. We have amazing lightning shows at night, with claps of thunder so loud it rattles the windows. Mornings begin with misty clouds drifting across the hilltops; temperatures so cool it feels like I’m still living in the mountains.

I think often about my time in Grecia, where this whole journey started. Rob and I didn’t know what to expect when we moved to Costa Rica. The idea was risky, ridiculous, and romantic. Little did I know, it was the beginning of something great

Below is a chapter from Happier Than A Billionaire: The Sequel. It chronicles the move to the beach and the beginning of our next adventure, one which included a truck full of plants.

Rob knew we would have a garden one day. He has a way of seeing into our future. (more…)

By | 2018-04-15T18:19:12-04:00 July 14th, 2017|Categories: Mountain House, The Happier House|Tags: , , , |8 Comments

A Walk in the Woods

Costa Rica Ocelot

Costa Rica Cost of Living Update: 10 lb Bag of Cat Litter— $6

There are many things one expects to find while walking through the woods: birds chirping, leaf ants gallantly marching in line, or lizards scouring under fallen leaves. However, this is Costa Rica and when you are strolling through the forest in this country, be prepared to come across animals that may, or may not, be happy to see you.

In my first book, I wrote about my husband’s unexpected encounter with a wild ocelot. This is a true story. And although people insist we staged this photo, I have to ask these non believers, do I sound like a person who risks being clawed to death by a wild cat? If so, than I applaud you for your confidence in my intrepid constitution. Internally, I believe I’m this kind of bad ass, and not the one that cries when she stubs her toe on the corner of the couch.

Please enjoy this free chapter from Happier Than A Billionaire in which my parents visit Costa Rica for the first time. I attempt to impress by taking them to see Arenal Volcano where the infamous cat encounter occurred.  (more…)

By | 2018-04-15T18:19:16-04:00 October 21st, 2015|Categories: Nature|Tags: , , , , |8 Comments

A little house on the beach. Could you leave all your possessions behind and live a simpler life?

Little Beach House

Costa Rica Cost of Living Update: Picking bananas from a tree in your backyard—free

When we first moved to Costa Rica eight years ago, we came with only a cat named Pumpkin, a dog named Clementine, and a couple battered suitcases. We rented a small guesthouse on top of a mountain in Grecia. Although there were challenges, we were happier than we had ever been before.

Rob started playing guitar and we both started working out again. During this decompression phase, I began writing about all of the funny things that were happening… and there were many. When one decides to quit their job and run away to a foreign country, you get roped into many ridiculous scenarios.

After emailing my stories to friends from an Internet cafe, I was encouraged to search for a publisher. However, all of my queries were met with the same response, “Great writing but no one is interested in a book about Costa Rica. Do you have anything about vampires?” (more…)

By | 2018-04-15T18:19:16-04:00 October 8th, 2015|Categories: Bed and Breakfast, Uncategorized|Tags: , , , |91 Comments

HAPPIER ROAD TRIP — PART VI

Costa Rica Crab

Costa Rica Cost of Living Update: 15 eggs — $2.66

After visiting the animal sanctuary, Rob and I decide to drive farther south… all the way down to the Osa Peninsula. We’ve been there before and are excited to return to the place where we first saw Scarlet Macaws flying overhead: Agua Dulce Beach Resort. It’s just a five-minute drive from Puerto Jiménez, which borders the Gulfo Dulce: the bay that separates the peninsula from the mainland. It is the only resort on the beach in this area that offers air-conditioning. We book an oceanfront bungalow that includes a wooden porch. Out front are two rocking chairs, perfect for relaxing, watching the sunrise.

I slop on a ton of sunscreen and immediately head out to the beach. The sand is soft, it feels like New Year’s Eve confetti underneath my feet. Mother Nature must have known I was coming and arranged for two macaws to fly overhead. This is exactly how I remember it, and precisely why the Osa Peninsula is so magical.

The two birds vocalize back and forth with each other, using sounds that are not unlike a tarot card reader after her fifth Camel cigarette. I sit on a piece of driftwood and notice a pile of shells. Some are brown, shiny and look like tiny Godiva chocolates. Others are cracked open resembling angel wings. This country is always reminding me to revere the small as much as the big.

“I’ve scheduled a mangrove tour,” Rob says while taking a seat next to me.

“I don’t have to swim there, right?” Whenever my husband plans excursions, it’s important to inquire whether I’ll need my floaty wings to survive it.

“No, it’s just kayaking. We’ll have to leave soon so let’s get our stuff together and head out.” (more…)

By | 2018-04-15T18:19:19-04:00 September 6th, 2014|Categories: Nature, Tourism, Uncategorized|Tags: , , , , , , |6 Comments

HAPPIER ROAD TRIP 2014 — PART V

Baby Mexican Porcupine

Cost Of Living Update: Package of English Muffins — $4.90

While staying at Anne’s farmhouse, we decide to check out what’s up the steep, dirt road. We follow signs for Osa Mountain Village, a mountaintop development that advertises a restaurant and pool. And as you guys know, I can’t pass up a pool.

Just before we reach this development, we see an entrance for Osa Santuario De Animales. It’s a remarkable place with an equally remarkable owner. Many of the animals that reside here were rescued by MINAE (Costa Rica Ministry of the Environment), a division of the government that is responsible for protecting Costa Rica’s wildlife. Some will be rehabilitated and returned to the forest. Others will spend the rest of their lives at the sanctuary depending on their condition.

It’s our lucky day and we receive a tour of this center by its owner, Mike Graeber. He’s a burly man, who speaks with authority and intent. I imagine him riding motorcycles through South America, or logging in Oregon. However, looks can certainly be deceiving. He is a gentle man whose calling is to care for helpless animals that have no other place to go. (more…)

By | 2018-04-15T18:19:20-04:00 August 22nd, 2014|Categories: Nature|Tags: , , , , , |18 Comments

FOURTH OF JULY IN COSTA RICA

Costa Rica Costa Of Living Update: Cover charge for 4th of July party at The Mar Vista Beach Club which also included dinner and access to pool—$12/person

I don’t often write about the nightlife in Costa Rica, but July 4th was a doozy. We went to Mar Vista Beach Club and watched a live band before heading out to Flamingo for fireworks. Americans and Costa Ricans celebrated side by side under the night sky. And this just proves if there is a party, everyone will want to grill some hot dogs, enjoy each other’s company,  and watch the sky come alive with pyrotechnics.

September 15th will be Costa Rica’s Independence Day. No doubt I’ll be rubbing elbows with Gringos and Ticos alike, eating fried plantains, and watching fireworks conscious of the freedoms that Costa Ricans and Americans share. Coincidentally, both country’s flags are red, white, and blue.

By | 2018-04-15T18:19:26-04:00 July 6th, 2013|Categories: Uncategorized|Tags: , , |4 Comments

SAND SWIMMING

Costa Rica Fishing

Costa Rica Costa Of Living Update: Used 18-foot pongo, including a 40 HP Yamaha two-stroke outboard motor with trailer— $6500

“You have to jump and swim to shore,” my friend Ian said. This is not what you want to hear when out on a leisurely fishing trip. Oddly, this is happening more and more frequently. While living in Costa Rica, the phrase “you have to jump overboard” seems to be as common as, “Hey, let’s investigate that bat cave.” I’m never wearing the appropriate footwear on either occasion.

We were bringing Ian’s  boat back to the coast, where we unwisely unloaded it off the trailer just a few hours before. (This was not off a paved decline like I’m used to in New Jersey, but rouge style straight off a sandy beach.) It was only until the swells picked up that we realized bringing it back in would be problematic. The sea was ugly that day my friends.

In an attempt to not let the only waif-like individual—one who would surely add nothing to this endeavor except unwitty banter— get pinned between a runaway boat and trailer positioned on the beach, I was instructed to jump overboard and swim to shore. Or perhaps they just wanted to get rid of the dead weight. I’ll never know. Either way, I couldn’t see any upside in remaining alongside my husband, so I jumped off the boat—port side to be exact— with the dexterity of Steve Martin.

With so much adrenaline coursing through my veins, I swam unlike ever before. I often use my long perfected doggie paddle maneuver whenever dumped into the sea, but somehow I convinced myself to outstretch my arms as a normal person would who didn’t want to end up at the bottom of the ocean.

I must have no concept of my surroundings since, after a few minutes, I found myself  swimming on land. I actually beached myself. As my belly sunk further into the sand, I was still outstretching my arms in a pumping motion that could easily be described as a cross between a side stroke and someone having an unfortunate grand mal seizure.  This actually drew a crowd and I was glad I could entertain the tourists around me. If I recall correctly, I might have turned over and did the backstroke. I’m sure I heard applause.

It appears I invented a new sport… sand swimming. I can attest that it is a great cardiovascular activity, and can be performed for a good seven minutes before a small child runs up and says, “You need help lady?”

As for the boat, that’s a whole different story. Maybe I’ll leave that one for the next book. In the meantime, I’ll just keep smiling.

 

By | 2018-04-15T18:19:27-04:00 April 12th, 2013|Categories: Nature|Tags: , , , |5 Comments

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